This Here Town is Hot Springs, Arkansas
Are you looking for the best things to do in Hot Springs, Arkansas? Are you wondering if it is worth visiting Hot Springs, Arkansas? Read on for a quick synopsis of Hot Springs’ history, vibe, and the best Hot Springs activities.
This post contains affiliate links. As always, all photographs are copyrighted Reese Moore Photography unless otherwise stated and cannot be used without express permission.
The Fordyce Bathhouse is a wonderful preservation of an early 1900s bathhouse.
Hot Springs, Arkansas is equal parts elegant historic resort, striking natural wonder, and miniature Las Vegas. I had spent several hours wandering the town when I said to my husband, “There’s something a little bit Las Vegas about this town; I don’t get it.”
I didn’t “get it” because I hadn’t yet done my research on the history of this unique small town! Alas, I’m getting ahead of myself.
We all but burned rubber when we made the impromptu decision to visit Hot Springs, AR, on our cross-country road trip. (We were literally passing the exit when we made an extremely sharp right in our camper van, sending coffee cups flying.)
We spent 3 fun-filled days exploring Hot Springs, Arkansas, and I can’t wait to read a book on the gangster history of this town. I’m sharing our experiences in hopes they’ll help you make the rest of your trip, and, before we go any further, No, you cannot swim in the hot springs at Hot Springs National Park.
The thermal springs are protected and covered for visitor safety (which I completely understand after witnessing all the bozos at Yellowstone National Park), but there are a number of ways to enjoy the hot thermal waters, as detailed below.
Bathhouse Row features stunning architecture.
The History:
I’m not even going to pretend that this blog post could do much more than scratch the surface of Hot Springs’ rich, wild history, so here’s a Cliff’s Notes rundown:
The thermal springs were a gathering place for Native American tribes for untold generations, and they called it “The Valley of Vapors.” In 1807, a gentleman named Pruhomme became the first “modern settler” of Hot Springs, and in 1832, Hot Springs was granted federal protection of the thermal springs. (It would become a National Park in 1921.)
The American Civil War took a heavy toll on Hot Springs, causing most residents to flee from the various guerilla bands, who would ultimately burn most remaining buildings to the ground.
The ornate facade at the Fordyce Bathhouse.
Hot Springs saw a resurgence after the Civil War, and by 1873, the small town was home to more than 1,200 year-round residents, 6 bathhouses, and 24 hotels and boarding houses. It also became home to a host of colorful characters around this time, including two warring gangster families, the Flynns and the Dorans, which resulted in the Hot Springs Gunfight of 1899. (I told you this here town was a lively one!)
Al Capone was known to frequent the Arlington Hotel, and Frank Costello, Bugs Moran, and Lucky Luciano also enjoyed hanging out in this secluded town. Soon, Hot Springs would become a national gambling mecca led by famed gangster Owney Madden, “The English Godfather.” It was touted as a “hotbed for organized crime, such as gambling, prostitution, and boot-legging.” Gambling wasn’t shut down in Hot Springs until 1967.
Meanwhile, Baseball came to Hot Springs, AR in 1886, giving it the historic title of the “birthplace of spring training.” A wealth of teams from both white and African American leagues trained at Hot Springs until the 1950s, including the famous Jackie Robinson.
Also noteworthy is Hot Springs’ Army-Navy Hospital, which was built in the mid-1880s and cared for the likes of Helen Keller and Joe DiMaggio. A large number of WWII soldiers were also brought to the area for treatment and redistribution.
Today, the town of Hot Springs is home to just under 40,000 residents.
Historic buildings dot the main strip in historic Hot Springs Village.
The Vibe:
Hot Springs, Arkansas is an unusual mix of rich, varied history and modern tourist trap. Bathhouse Row offers up stunning architecture, interesting historical exhibits, thermal water filling stations, and full “traditional thermal bathing experiences.”
The other side of the street offers a mix of cute, trendy retails stores in between the rock shops, retro candy outlets, old time photo vendor, a somewhat sparse Gangster Museum, a burlesque theater, several CBD stores, and an antique-store-tarot-reading-studio hybrid.
This vintage bathtub sits in the Hot Springs gift shop on Bathhouse Row.
The Charm:
There’s a lot of charm in Hot Springs, from the elaborate late 1800s bathhouses and stunning promenades to the quirky and hip retail stores. Lose yourself in a bygone area wandering Bathhouse Row or attend a smoke-and-mirrors magic show, Hot Springs is a Choose Your Own Adventure kinda town.
And, finally, Hot Springs National Park may be an urban national park, but the natural beauty of the forests, streams, and sweeping views will set your heart aflutter. Make sure to experience to wild side of Hot Springs during your visit.
The Gulpha Gorge Campground is a lovely place to stay in Hot Springs, Arkansas.
13 Best Things to Do in Hot Springs, AR
Camp at Gulpha Gorge Campground.
This wooded campground offers spacious tent and RV sites (with power and water hookups), and a good number of sites are on the creek, which is truly lovely. The campground also has a gorgeous, oversized firepit (by permit only), bathrooms (no showers), and an amphitheater. Cross the river via the picturesque stepping stones to start hiking right from the campground.
If you’re interested in camping at Gulpha Gorge but are strongly pro-shower (It’s me, hi, I’m the problem, it’s me), you can pay to use the bathhouses at the nearby KOA. If the KOA is already closed for the day and your camper’s hot water heater is busted, do remember that the thermal water coming out of the public filling stations is delightfully warm. Do with that information what you will, but do it in private.
Several hikes start at the Gulpha Gorge Campground in Hot Springs National Park.
Hike from Gulpha Gorge Campground to Hot Springs.
A lovely system of trails leaves right from the Gulpha Gorge Campground. Simply hop across the stepping stone bridge by the amphitheater, and off you go! You can actually hike from the campground to the Promenade behind Bathhouse Row. We hiked up to the Goat Rock Trail overlook with our morning coffee, and it was an amazing way to start the day.
Superior Bathhouse Brewery makes creative brews using the 4,000-year-old thermal water from Hot Spring National Park.
Order a flight at Superior Bathhouse Brewery.
There are a lot of ways to imbibe Hot Springs’ legendary thermal waters, but a pint of Peach Sour from Superior Bathhouse Brewery might be the most fun. This small-batch craft brewery operates out of the historic Superior Bathhouse, which is an attraction in its own right.
The building was built in 1916 and operated as a bathhouse until its closure in 1983. The historic space sat empty until Rose Schweikhart reinvented it as the only brewery inside a US National Park and the only brewery in the world to use thermal water in their brew process. That’s right! Superior Bathhouse’s beers are made with Hot Springs’ famed water, which fell as rain some 4,000-odd years ago before rising to the surface today as 147-degree thermal water.
Optimize your experience by ordering a flight with some of Superior Bathhouse Brewing’s more outlandish and creative brews. (I loved the Peach Sour, Spicy Ride, and Big Papua Christmas) And, don’t forget dinner! The Banh Mi is especially delicious, and the kitchen staff graciously substituted mushrooms for me.
The Buckstaff Bathhouse in Hot Springs, Arkansas has been offering traditional bathing services since it opened its doors in 1912.
Take a bath at the Buckstaff Bathhouse.
A spa day at Buckstaff Bathhouse is a step back in time, and the experience was so novel that I’ll be giving it it’s own blog post when I get a moment to catch my breath.
The Buckstaff Bathhouse is one of two remaining operational spas on Bathhouse Row, and it has been in continuous operation since opening its doors in 1912. Hailed as a traditional bathing experience, the Buckstaff hydrotherapy treatments utilize the toasty thermal spring water in the vintage spa for a highly memorable experience.
Note: The Quapaw is Hot Springs’ other operation bathhouse, and it offers a more contemporary (and familiar) spa experience. It was closed for renovations during our stay.
The Fordyce Bathhouse features an elaborate facade with intricate stained glass.
Visit the Fordyce Bathhouse Visitor Center and Museum.
Ok, so normally I cringe when someone suggests going by the visitor center as one of the “best things to do” in a town, buuuuut the Fordyce Bathhouse has been impeccably preserved, and the wandering labyrinth of dressing rooms, treatment rooms, bath stalls, and parlors offer a unique and in-depth look at local history and a bygone area. I loved the self-guided experience so much, I went once alone and then brought my husband back.
And, did I mention this one is free?
The Grand Promenade runs behind historic Bathhouse Row.
Stroll the Grand Promenade.
The Grand Promenade is a half-mile, manicured brick path that runs behind Bathhouse Row. It’s a really lovely stroll dotted with a “natural spring recreation,” cement tables with tile checkerboards, fountains, and beautiful views of the town. The historical markers will give you a new appreciation for the former grandeur of this small town.
The Hot Springs Tower’s observation deck offers sweeping panoramic views of Hot Springs National Park.
Hike to the Hot Springs Tower.
The Hot Springs Tower has been an institution throughout the town’s history, though the tower has taken 3 different forms. In 1877, local mill owner Enoch Woolman built a wooden observation tower at the summit of Hot Springs Mountain, which was replaced with a steel tower in 1906 (the Rix Tower). The Rix Tower was torn down on July 13, 1971, and the current structure opened to the public in June of 1983.
Today, visitors can hike or drive up to the tower, which sits next to a striking pagoda with lovely views. From the top of the building, you can enjoy panoramic views of 140 miles of Arkansas countryside from the open-air observation deck. Challenge yourself by taking the stairs to the top of the 216-foot tower… or simply ride the elevator.
Hot Springs’ 4,000-year-old thermal water remains the primary draw to the park.
Drink some 4,000-year-old thermal spring water.
Hot Springs offers several stations where you can fill up your water bottles with the legendary 4,000-year-old thermal water. Don’t be surprised to see locals waiting in line behind you with 4 or more giant jugs - this water has quite the following.
Shops and restaurants line the street across from Bathhouse Row.
Go shopping.
Across from Bathhouse Row lies a strip of retail businesses, restaurants, and tourist attractions, and some of the shops are thoughtfully curated and worth a wander. I’m a sucker for luxury, small-batch bath products, so I loved Bathhouse Soapery & Caldarium (also, how delightfully on-theme). Wrapped is another darling store filled with contemporary, fun gifts and souvenirs (that you’ll actually want to own). Stella Mae’s is delightfully weird (ramen earrings for the win), and Diablos Tacos and Mezcal was quite tasty. We also liked Trail Mix, which has a gift market and an adjacent outdoor outfitter.
Kollective Coffee + Tea serves artisan coffee beverages and organic bites.
Grab a coffee or lunch at Kollective Coffee + Tea.
Kollective Coffee + Tea is an oasis of intentional caffeination in Hot Springs. The calm, lovely cafe serves specialty coffee drinks, a lovely and nuanced tea selection, and organic bites.
After almost two weeks on the road (and eating our way across Austin, Texas), Kollective Coffee + Tea’s simple approach to clean ingredients and balanced flavors was nothing short of medicinal. We loved the turkey and gouda sandwich, quinoa salad, and spinach feta soup (a special).
Many colorful characters, such as Al Capone, flocked to Hot Springs, Arkansas.
Learn about Hot Springs’ gangster history.
Hot Springs’ eclectic, sometimes flashy history is full of colorful characters, many of them gangsters. Learning about the history of illegal gambling, prostitution, and organized crime will add a lot of richness to your experiences exploring the town.
There is a Gangster Museum, but it requires tours. The tour consists of a costumed guide pressing play on informational videos in a series of small interlocking rooms with framed articles and memorabilia. If this is not for you (we actually walked out on our tour because it just wasn’t our style), I recommend buying a local history book from a gift shop or Amazon.
Visit Garvan Woodland Gardens.
Garvan Woodland Gardens features dynamic architectural structures, majestic botanical landscapes, and four and a half miles of wooded shoreline. The gardens are part of the University of Arkansas, and they also do an impressive holiday light display each year.
Unfortunately, Garvan Woodland Gardens was closed during our time in Hot Springs, Arkansas, but it’s at the top of my list of things to experience next time we’re in the area.
Have you been to Hot Springs, Arkansas? What were your favorite things to do in the area? Drop ‘em in the comments below!
